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EYEWITNESS CHIAPAS

Report from a war zone

By Bill Hackwell
Chiapas, Mexico

Hackwell is a photo-journalist who participated in an emergency Pastors for Peace caravan from the United States to Chiapas, Mexico, in early May. The delegation delivered 32 tons of humanitarian aid to eight Indigenous communities and the San Carlos Hospital in Altamirano.

Tt has been over two years since the Mexican government and the Zapatista Army of National Liberation (EZLN) signed the San Andreas accords. These officially recognized the right of Indigenous communities to choose their own leaders and control the natural resources in their territories.

Members of the Pastors for Peace caravan that visited Chiapas in May could see immediately that the Mexican government is not respecting this agreement. Instead of moving towards peace, Chiapas is a war zone.

It reminds me of how Vietnam looked when I photographed the war there 30 years ago.

Just to get to the Chiapas border, the emergency caravan had to go through 15 military checkpoints inside Mexico. Once in Chiapas, we saw many Mexican Army convoys and military bases using U.S.-supplied hardware, ranging from Humvees and assault helicopters to army uniforms and everything in between.

Mexico and Colombia are the main recipients of U.S. military aid in Latin America. Over one-third of all officers being trained at Fort Benning's School of the Americas are now from the Mexican Army.

The "low-intensity, counter-insurgency" war being carried out against the Indigenous population here is made in the U.S.

U.S. military sales to Mexico rose from $4.8 million in 1996 to $28 million in 1997. Since President Ernesto Zedillo took office in December 1994, spending on the military has doubled.

The cost rests on the backs of the Mexican workers.

Autonomous communities

Despite this growing military presence, autonomous communities that have broken away from control by the ruling Institutional Revolutionary Party (PRI) continue to survive.

Of 110 municipalities in Chiapas, 38 have declared themselves autonomous communities. This is defined by setting up a ruling council unconnected to the PRI and refusing help from the government.

The caravan visited eight autono mous communities. Near each one there was a big Mexican Army presence.

This included checkpoints, army encampments complete with assault vehicles, and active patrols in full combat gear.

Indigenous community leaders told us that they are on red alert because of increased activity by the Army and other state and federal security forces. The heightened tension throughout Chiapas has halted all development projects and disrupted agricultural activity. Basic food crops like corn and beans were not planted this spring in many communities because of fear that the crops would be burned or people attacked in the fields.

In the EZLN highland center of Oventic, Comandante Moises inventoried antibiotics and other medicines brought by the caravan. He stood in front of a community medical clinic adorned with murals of Mexican revolutionary hero Emiliano Zapata, Che Guevara and masked Indigenous women.

At a public amphitheater nearby, large poles with pointed ends stick out of the ground. Moises explained they are to prevent military helicopters from landing.

"There are Army night patrols that come into the center," he said, "and we are constantly harassed by the helicopters that fly very low. The army will not do this while you are here, or as long as the international observers stay."

Importance of
international observers

The solidarity of international observers has become essential in the defense of the autonomous communities.

Acteal is the village where 45 unarmed men, women and children were brutally massacred in December. A sign there reads: "Welcome to national and international compañeros. We do not accept people from the government."

While the EZLN and its supporters encourage the observers, the Zedillo government is on the attack against them. The Mexican government is waging a war of genocide and does not want eyewitnesses to tell the world about it.

Since 1996, some 200 foreigners have been expelled from Mexico for "meddling in the country's internal affairs." The number of international observers today may be as few as 45.

Mexican immigration officials told the newspaper Reforma that agents were searching for 40 foreigners in Chiapas who are acting as human rights observers "without the correct visas."

The "correct" way is to register with the government and get an FM3 visa, which specifies where you can go and what you can do. But observers applying for an FM3 are usually turned down. Most people come to Mexico on a tourist visa. That has now become a pretext for expulsion.

At most military checkpoints we encountered immigration agents as well as Judicial Police. In April the newspaper Novedades actually published a list, complete with visa numbers, of 47 foreigners acting as human-rights observers.

The real meddling

While Zedillo attacks foreigners sympathetic to the Indigenous people of Chiapas, the real interventionists in Mexico are the International Monetary Fund and U.S. corporations.

Since the North American Free Trade Agreement took effect in January 1994, the Mexican government's debt has reached $170 billion. That has set off a fire sale of national industries once protected by the Mexican Constitution.

U.S. companies are poised to buy all 57 airports in Mexico, as well as essential railroad and telecommunication lines. The national oil company, Pemex, remains nationalized-but 78 percent of the oil it produces goes to the U.S. to pay loan interest.

While Chiapas is the poorest state in Mexico, it is the richest in untapped resources. It contains 81 percent of Mexico's crude oil reserves. U.S. corporations see the Zapatista movement as an obstacle to the exploitation of this area.

On Jan. 13, 1995, Chase Manhattan Bank's Emerging Markets Group wrote in a memo: "While Chiapas, in our opinion, does not pose a fundamental threat to Mexican political stability, it is perceived to be so by many in the investment community. The government will need to eliminate the Zapatistas to demo nstrate their effective control of the national territory and of security policy."

Low-intensity warfare
and paramilitary groups

Right after the release of this Chase Manhattan memo, the newly elected Zedillo government took its cue from the U.S. financial institutions to which it is mortgaged. In February 1995 it launched a two-part offensive against the Zapatistas and the EZLN communities.

Today over 70,000 armed troops and security forces are stationed in Chiapas. Most are camped in the eastern part near the Lacandon forest, where the Zapatista army is strongest.

The intent is to cut off and isolate the EZLN from the autonomous communities in the center of the state.

The other significant part of the government offensive is the growth of paramilitary groups armed and financed by the PRI. These groups are terrorist organizations similar to the Ku Klux Klan in the United States.

According to La Jornada newspaper, since 1996 these groups have killed over 800 people. They have conducted a campaign of burning homes and looting Indigenous crops.

The Dec. 22 Acteal massacre of 45 unarmed Tzotzil Indians was carried out by one of these groups, armed with army-issued assault rifles. An elite Army unit had been seen with the paramilitaries the day before the massacre.

According to Enlace Civil, the civilian link to the EZLN in San Cristobal de las Casas, over 22,000 Indigenous people have been displaced and are living in the mountains or in refugee camps as a direct result of paramilitary terror sanctioned by the Mexican government.

Women on the front lines

As our caravan neared the auto no mous village of Polho, we saw rows of women, their faces covered, guarding the entrance. U.S.-military-issued Hum vees patrolled the main road.

Yet the women were not intimidated. They have been conducting a heroic front-line defense of many of these communities. Here, and in the neighboring village of X'oyep, women with babies on their backs have repeatedly repulsed Army patrols trying to enter.

Their determined faces reflect a struggle that predates the Zapatista uprising by 500 years.

The flashpoint of the struggle recently shifted to a small, isolated commu nity in the eastern canyons of Chiapas-Taniperlas.

The town had declared itself autonomous on April 10. Immediately, Mexican Army troops along with Judicial and Public Security Police invaded the newly independent community.

Twelve international observers were arrested and deported. Six Mexican nationalists were imprisoned. Hundreds of military troops continue to occupy the community.

Some 140 male EZLN supporters fled to the surrounding mountains while women and children remain under house arrest.

The emergency caravan decided on April 24 to attempt to deliver food and messages of peace to the people of Taniperlas. After driving 75 miles from Ocosingo on a small dirt road, we delivered seven tons of rice, beans, corn, sugar and salt to the displaced men in the highlands.

It was carried on the backs of mules, EZLN supporters and the caravanistas. As the sun began to go down, the aid was safely carried away from the heavily patrolled road to Taniperlas.

When asked how they would get the food into the occupied town, the men smiled and said, "We have our ways."

Paramilitaries harass caravan

The next morning the caravan proceeded to the town. The Rev. Lucius Walker informed public security agents and PRI sympathizers that the caravan was there on a pastoral visit.

It was at this point that paramilitary members allied with the PRI appeared. Many had clubs.

Unfazed, members of the caravan joined in a prayer for peace and then proceeded to leave. Frustrated at the success of the caravan's mission, the PRI sympathizers tried to block the road and threw a rock, breaking one of the vehicle's windows.

This incident got international media attention-not the occupation by the military. The reports made it sound as though the people were hostile to the caravan.

The solidarity movement worldwide needs to continue to expose the U.S. government's role in the Mexican ruling class's war of extermination against the Indigenous population. The war in Chiapas has slipped from the headlines, but this should not be taken as a sign that the struggle is over.

In many respects the situation is more grave. More confrontations are sure to come. The popular movement in Mexico not only welcomes international observers, but says they are urgently needed to expose the insidious warfare being conducted against them.

Editor's note: On May 11, the Mexican government deported 40 Italians who had come to Chiapas as human-rights supporters.

This article is copyright under a Creative Commons License.
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